Here is an article from The Rare Wine Company, importer of the wines of Jean-Philippe Fichet
"Today, Meursault is back on top, and a new generation of winemakers is capitalizing on its diverse soils to make some of Burgundy’s most exciting white wines. “Expression” is the order of the day, and wines of unprecedented individuality are emerging from such cellars as Comtes Lafon, Guy Roulot, Arnaud Ente and now also Jean-Philippe Fichet.
More than any of his peers, Fichet is testing the limits of transparency, to find the very soul of Meursault’s terroirs. It was Meursault’s destiny to have its soils revealed in this way: their intense stoniness is magnified by an exceptionally low water table, forcing the vines’ roots deep underground.
Fichet’s work is a direct outgrowth of a breakthrough that happened three decades ago: René Lafon’s decision to bottle his Meursault “Clos de la Barre” on its own. For a century before, such a thing had been unheard of, as only the most famous vineyards—the premier crus—were ever bottled individually; everything else was blended into Meursault villages.
Lafon’s innovation not only proved that a lieu-dit (a non-classified vineyard) could say something profound, it drew attention to Meursault’s incredible soils—paving the way for the later accomplishments of Jean-Françoise Coche, Jean-Marc Roulot and, of course, René Lafon’s son Dominique. But Fichet has carried Lafon’s revolution to another level— studying every square inch of earth and stone in his domaine, to make Meursault’s purest set of single-climat wines.
Just as Jean-Marc Roulot did until recently, Fichet has flown largely under the world’s radar. He began as a grower in 1981 but was forced to rebuild his domaine from scratch in the 1990s, having lost all his best fruit sources—including a piece of Meursault- Perrières—for lack of long-term contracts. But he learned from this experience. By 2000, he had used carefully negotiated long-term fermage and mètayage agreements to create an extraordinary new domaine, brimming with exceptional sites.
Fichet’s methods reflect his philosophy: he is famously meticulous and abhors taking short cuts. His low yields, the foremost key to quality, are achieved through severe winter pruning rather than by green harvesting. And he believes his wines’ expressiveness is enhanced through a patient eighteen-month élevage, with little new oak and by avoiding aggressive lees stirring. The wines that Jean-Philippe Fichet is making today have few rivals for their class in Burgundy, and they could be unmatched in their transparency and expressiveness."
We are delighted to offer this small (less than 100 cases of these wines were imported) allocation to our customers:
2007 Meursault—Based on three beautifully situated parcels on the southern slopes of the village: les Cloux (60-year-old vines); les Chaumes de Narvaux, just above Boucheres and Gouttes d’Or; Limouzin, directly below Genevrières, plus a little Criots.
"The generic Fichet 2007 Meursault marries (immediately after pressing) fruit from six sites, including Les Clous, Narvaux, Les Crotots (next to Poruzots), and Limozin. A classic Meursault nose of milled grain (suggesting pungent buckwheat) and lightly-toasted hazelnut, along with fresh lemon and orange peel, mint, and green tea lead to a palate that is at once subtly creamy, oily, and honeyed, but also refreshingly citric and invigoratingly zesty and spicy in its long finish. This will prove fascinatingly delicious for at least 4-6 years" 90 pts. The Wine Advocate $47.99 per bottle or $489.50/cs ($40.79)
2007 Meix sous le Château—The vines in this lieu-dit were planted in 1953. This tiny, steep, west-facing site in the middle of the village is classically Meursault in character, with citrus and mineral notes, beautifully pure fruit in the mid-palate and fine length.
"Fichet's Meursault Le Meix Sous Le Chateau (Meix in the old Burgundian dialect means house or barn, much like "Mas" in Provence) exhibits a nutty, earthy nose and a racy, medium-to-full-bodied, rich yet tangy, core of white currants and minerals."
89 pts. The Wine Advocate $54.99 per bottle or $560.90/cs ($46.74)
2007 Les Chevalières—One of Meursault’s finest lieux-dits: a superb plot of 30- to 77-year-old vines on the same slope as the premier crus—with soil like that of Perrières. With its intense minerality, great delineation and length, this is a lieu-dit of soaring quality.
"Fichet's 2007 Meursault Les Chevalieres originates in the upper portion of this site (nearly touching Meix Chavaux and Les Luchets) with beneficial drainage and wind exposure. When you taste a wine like this, it-s hard not to believe that somehow the chalky mother rock and stones of the site have somehow entered the wine, as there are scents and flavors one can only call stony and chalky, to the point of a tactile sense of dustiness. Setting aside what might be superstition, and turning from the stony elements on display here, there is also an ester-rich, high-toned essence of green herbs that lends a lovely cleansing sense to both the aroma and flavors, and marries beautifully with the lime and white peach fruit that serves for refreshment. Toasted almond and honey lend richness to this clear, vivacious and as already mentioned (at least metaphorically) mineral-inflected Meursault that finishes with mesmerizing and reverberating length. I would anticipate this being worth following for at least 5-7 years." 93 pts. The Wine Advocate $59.99 per bottle or $611.90/cs ($50.99)
2007 Les Tesson—Very similar to Chevalières in its minerality and fruit character, in some vintages Tessons has even more mid-palate weight and length. Focused like a laser beam, this is often the most complete of the lieux-dits.
"The 2007 Meursault Les Tessons reflects a site that Fichet likes to points out was once rated (in his view correctly) as among the commune-s best. This is subtle at every level, from its creaminess; through the intricate interviewing of chalk, salt, and hard-to-pin-down mineral nuances with citrus, herbs, pit fruits and liquid narcissus and lily perfume; to a finish of persistent, wafting floral essences, chalk, and mouth-watering, saline, meat-reduction savor. I am convinced there is an inner richness here that needs time to come to fruition and will make this already superb wine a haunting experience over the next 6-8 years. Not without reason does Fichet call this "my premier cru."
93 pts. The Wine Advocate $69.99 per bottle or $713.90/cs ($59.49)
Fill in the form below to send this wine post to a friend: